The narration put together by the team at We Are Müesli is a lot more detailed than a mere tourist itinerary: The Great Palermo explores the gastronomy and folklore of the Sicilian capital, rediscovering food as the reflection of an urban space full of exciting contradictions.
Print itineraryThe player, taking control of little Gaetano, is catapulted into a colourful and pleasure-loving city in search of street food delicacies. These are intrinsically linked to local history, the many foreign regimes that have ruled the city over the centuries, and the multiculturalism of the locals and their traditions. It is a ‘story of food and transformation’ that starts at the Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio, also known as the Church of the Martorana: this is an iconic point of departure, which has come to symbolise the city’s cultural rebirth, above all in recent years. The three Arab domes of the adjacent Church of San Cataldo provide the backdrop to the story behind one particular type of sweet, frutta martorana (small marzipan pieces of fruit, made from what is also known as ‘royal paste’): according to this pleasant little anecdote, in preparation for a visit from the Pope, a local group of nuns once diligently used these sweets to decorate the trees of a small garden. The itinerary continues from Piazza Bellini along the Cassaro with its wide walkways: this long road, which leads right down to the sea, has, since the onset of the modern age and the days of Spanish rule, been the perfect place to buy jewellery and expensive clothing. Gilded decorations and clothing always appear in Palermo whenever there is a public holiday or feast, and we find the same golden hue in other traditional morsels: pannelle (chickpea fritters) and arancine (friend rice balls). These two delicacies introduce us to the Church of S.Giovanni degli Eremiti and the ferry, respectively. The former is an austere place of Arab-Norman construction, while the latter is particularly symbolic for an island like Sicily, with connotations of all those who have left the island over the centuries in search of their fortunes and all those who have lovingly come running back into its arms. The sea on which the ferry bobs is also a treasure trove of bounties, which have always been close to the people of Palermo’s hearts: on the beaches of Mondello, in the shadow of Mount Pellegrino, and along the shores of Sferracavallo, trying octopus is a must; it is cooked in different ways, but every dish is geared at heightening the thrill of lucky patrons.
Looking up from the sea and returning to the streets of the historic centre for another foray into local gastronomy, we see Gaetano chance upon a sacred Palermitan tradition: desserts. Worth mentioning is the famous ricotta-filled Iris which is served up in front of the Chiosco Ribaudo kiosk, giving us a glimpse of liberty-style Palermo from the end of the 19th century near the majestic Teatro Massimo, the third biggest theatre in Europe. And seizing the opportunity, what better place than to try another tidbit, the Sfincia di San Giuseppe? This ricotta-filled mouthful of joy is traditionally made on 19 March every year.
From Piazza Verdi we return to the nearby Via Roma, an imposing road built at the beginning of the 20th century. First we pass through the Quattro Canti, the main crossroads in Palermo’s old town, the height of sophistication back in the day and the place where the city’s main Spanish roads, Via Maqueda and Corso Vittorio Emanuele (the Cassaro), cross. Here the magnificent southern sun provides the opportunity for a refreshing grattatella (similar to a granita). Coming to Via Roma, we discover the secrets, mysteries and famous wares of Vucciria Market, starting at its very edge: on the ‘Discesa Caracciolo’ steps, visitors can sample what is perhaps the most famous example of Palermo’s street food: pane ca’ meusa (lit. ‘bread with spleen’): the street vendor and his big pot of boiling oil and meat beckons the player over in the Vucciria district, where we find the famous balate (the paving stones that cover the surface of the road). Now it’s time to try wine and lemonade and get a feel for the most working-class area of the city, via the streets that wind through the district’s market and down to Piazza Garraffello.
Gaetano even has time for a visit outside the city, to Mount Pellegrino, where the Sanctuary of Saint Rosalia, patron saint of Palermo, is situated. Delving right into a heartfelt religious tradition, the player is given a taste of babbalucio (the same snails known in France as escargot), which provide the basis for a dish traditionally prepared during the celebrations in honour of the patron Saint, bringing street vendors from all over with burlap bags full of snails to sell. The Great Palermo is an elegant arthouse ballad that introduces the player to the richest and most famous places in Palermo without once missing an opportunity to taste its best delicacies. It portrays food as one of the most effective ways that the many ethnicities, cultures and traditions that have intertwined over the course of Palermo’s history have been handed down through the generations.
